From Philly's Streets To Bostonian's Hands

Art Deco | Sapphire and Diamond Brooch | Circa 1920









An out of state client contacted us to restore her grandmother's heirloom brooch she had inherited. I asked her to take some photos from all angles and email them along.  A few days later my heart sank when I opened her email and saw the condition of a piece of history in shambles.

Her item was completely destroyed on both sides inward, as it had been run over by cars multiple times on a busy Philly street.  This brooch was in serious need of tender love and care.  The owner had contacted many jewelers in and around the state of Pennsylvania, none were willing to take on her project of restoring this beautiful brooch. When I held the piece in my hands, I saw why.

The degree of damage was so extreme from the outside in, on left and right, including twisted, deformed and crushed settings.  In addition to missing, smashed and loose gemstones everywhere.  



Top view
Back view
Side view


These are the actual client images sent to Bostonian.



After about three weeks into the project, we have turned the halfway point on this restoration. We have reformed the platinum in the center areas and crafted new outer segments to be attached. Next is to custom cut all the small square blue sapphires that are going to be remounted.

Damaged outer frames removed (not in pic) center section re-aligned and new top outer frames fabricated.


As we meticulously reverse all that has gone wrong with this unlucky brooch, I can only imagine the many happy days of yesteryear; the dinners and receptions where this brooch was center stage, at least for one lucky woman.  This is what keeps our team determined to restore what has gone bad and erase those memories of that horrible night watching the beautiful brooch being run over, again and again...

Two goldsmiths work together on this project.  One is focused on the metal fabrication including the filigree details and the other, being a superior gemstone setter, on the diamond and sapphire setting and assembly. 

Top right completed


Top left completed


We finished the top tier on both left and right side, set all of the gemstones and assembled them back to the brooch on both sides.  We have fabricated the bottom frames for both sides and hand crafted the fine Art Deco filigree wire that will be assembled and welded in place to secure the middle of the top and bottom tier together.  This will replace the original filigree work that was destroyed along with adding structural integrity to the frame of the brooch.


Close up of side filigree and bottom frame, along with pin stem and catch
The hardware for the pin stem and catch is the last area of restoration.  We were able to salvage and recycle the original platinum pin, however the client chose to update the catch system to a modern style, to ensure better safety for future wear.  A final quality control and polish completes the project.

This restoration has taken the team at Bostonian a period of twelve weeks from start to finish. Each day dedicating four to five hours of the goldsmith's time. It was quite a challenging project in many aspects, but equally as rewarding to see an heirloom continue on it's journey.