During the Skinner preview on Sunday, we were inspired by many works of art and period pieces. A few stood out for us, not for their carat weight, size or their particular provenance, but for the sheer craftsmanship and the method involved to create. Some pieces took months to create in artist's studios, but all show a level of creativity and skill to amaze. Lot #495 stood out for us for the engineering and interactive artistry involved.
18k Gold and Plique-a-Jour Enamel Flower Brooch.
Lot # 495 with a starting bid of $1500 - $2000
This brooch is amazing and entirely handmade. The flower is comprised of five articulating petals which allows the owner to wear the flower as a bud or in full bloom. The precise hinge mechanism at the base of each petal, work together to glide open and close. Moving parts on jewelry always adds a layer of complexity to any design due to the small size. Add to that years of use and age of the materials and eventually a restoration is needed. Lot #495 is in perfect condition. Probably created in the 30's, this brooch was gently loved.
Each petal is created using an enamel technique called Plique-a-Jour. The name is French for
"letting in daylight". The artist creates cells or intricate frames similar to cloisonne but without a backing so the light can shine through through the transparent or translucent enamel. The enamelist will place a small amount of material in each cell, floating a small air pocket within the enamel to suspend the material in place. It is fired at high temperature to create the stained glass enamel look. Incredible.
The petals and the framework are stunning, but what makes this brooch come to life are the sapphires and diamonds set en tremblant. A French term meaning " to tremble". This technique is typically used on brooches with foliage or organic themes. In this case, each gemstone is set on a stem to resemble a fluttering stamen at the center of the flower. The jeweler incorporated a spring component for each one called a trembler. Over the years, Bostonian Jewelers have restored various trembler mechanisms. This requires the knowledge of how to create them as well as the knowledge of various types of tremblers created over periods of time.
The movement within the bright green enamel is fascinating to look at and must have been a conversation piece at many cocktail parties. This brooch is on display at the Skinner auction preview until noon on Tuesday when it will be up for auction. If you are in the Park Plaza area, this is a must see (and touch).
Another example of en tremblant applied in fine jewelry is this spectacular butterfly brooch. The brooch was created to move as one unit and catch your eye from across the room. The trembler is attached to the backside clasp element. The inside spring is coiled up within the disc creating the tension needed for movement.
The movement or articulation of parts on works of art is not anything new, but we are seeing the technique being used in new and creative ways in the jewelry industry. A new generation of designers and the expansion of the technology available has exploded the possibilities.
Bostonian Jewelers has been in the business of restoring antique and period jewelry for generations. We appreciate the skill, time and passion that is required to create items similar to these, but we also appreciate the love that owners have for their heirlooms. If you have a vintage item that has en tremblant or you suspect that it may have this technique at some point, contact us for a consultation.
