Inspirational Techniques

During the Skinner preview on Sunday, we were inspired by many works of art and period pieces. A few stood out for us, not for their carat weight, size or their particular provenance, but for the sheer craftsmanship and the method involved to create. Some pieces took months to create in artist's studios, but all show a level of creativity and skill to amaze.  Lot #495 stood out for us for the engineering and interactive artistry involved.

18k Gold and Plique-a-Jour Enamel Flower Brooch.  

Lot # 495 with a starting bid of $1500 - $2000

This brooch is amazing and entirely handmade. The flower is comprised of five articulating petals which allows the owner to wear the flower as a bud or in full bloom.  The precise hinge mechanism at the base of each petal, work together to glide open and close. Moving parts on jewelry always adds a layer of complexity to any design due to the small size.  Add to that years of use and age of the materials and eventually a restoration is needed. Lot #495 is in perfect condition.  Probably created in the 30's, this brooch was gently loved.

Each petal is created using an enamel technique called Plique-a-Jour.  The name is French for

 "letting in daylight".  The artist creates cells or intricate frames similar to cloisonne but without a backing so the light can shine through through the transparent or translucent enamel. The enamelist will place a small amount of material in each cell, floating a small air pocket within the enamel to suspend the material in place.  It is fired at high temperature to create the stained glass enamel look. Incredible. 

The petals and the framework are stunning, but what makes this brooch come to life are the sapphires and diamonds set en tremblant. A French term meaning " to tremble". This technique is typically used on brooches with foliage or organic themes.  In this case, each gemstone is set on a stem to resemble a fluttering stamen at the center of the flower.  The jeweler incorporated a spring component for each one called a trembler.  Over the years, Bostonian Jewelers have restored various trembler mechanisms.  This requires the knowledge of how to create them as well as the knowledge of various types of tremblers created over periods of time.  

 The movement within the bright green enamel is fascinating to look at and must have been a conversation piece at many cocktail parties. This brooch is on display at the Skinner auction preview until noon on Tuesday when it will be up for auction.  If you are in the Park Plaza area, this is a must see (and touch). 

Another example of en tremblant applied in fine jewelry is this spectacular butterfly brooch.  The brooch was created to move as one unit and catch your eye from across the room.  The trembler is attached to the backside clasp element. The inside spring is coiled up within the disc creating the tension needed for movement. 

The movement or articulation of parts on works of art is not anything new, but we are seeing the technique being used in new and creative ways in the jewelry industry.  A new generation of designers and the expansion of the technology available has exploded the possibilities.   

Bostonian Jewelers has been in the business of restoring antique and period jewelry for generations.  We appreciate the skill, time and passion that is required to create items similar to these, but we also appreciate the love that owners have for their heirlooms.  If you have a vintage item that has en tremblant or you suspect that it may have this technique at some point, contact us for a consultation.

Vintage Engagement Ring...Re-imagined.

This Summer, we had the pleasure of working with a long time client.  She is always on the move, crisscrossing the country.  Boston is a frequent stop for her, however the West Coast is where she calls home.  She has a deep appreciation for all jewelry, so we can all connect on that level creating some amazing pieces for her through the years. Recently she became engaged, her fiancé gave her an amazing and unique vintage ring including twin European cut diamonds bezel set side by side on top if the ring.  The condition of the ring was typical for a ring that is over 100 years old.  The shank was worn, thin and split.  All the settings on the sides were worn as well as the under gallery being compromised by wear over the years.

Our Customer provided this image
when she first acquired the ring

The condition of the ring
 when it arrived to us

Our client loves color, so to truly make this ring hers and one she would love to wear for years to come, she wanted to incorporate (somehow) an
incredible gem in the center sandwiched between the two twin diamonds.  She has an impressive collection of loose gemstones in various shades and intensities, but a cushion shaped sapphire with intense color was the perfect selection. The bezel setting was created in CAD and fitted into place, however the remainder of the transformation was hand tooled in our workshop.  Our team worked together to make our client's dream of the perfect 'enhanced" engagement ring possible. 



Work in Progress:  Side image of the ring while the
 stones are being set

Work in Progress: The diamonds on the side bezel
 being set in place.






When our customer arrived to pick up her ring, she was overjoyed.  Not only was her vintage ring restored to a wearable condition for everyday use, but her ring had transformed into the style that she had always envisioned for her engagement ring.  Having vision and trust in the design and restoration process to create a spectacular heirloom to enjoy for many years to come.

Do you have a vintage ring that just does not suit your style?  Can it be re-imagined?  Contact us to discover the possibilities or visit our website for more information on restorations and our process.

Bostonian Jewelers Restorations

Photo Credit: Bostonian Jewelers and Client Photo

Bostonian Jewelers 1-888-523-0130



Auction Previews at Skinner Inc. | Park Plaza

Skinner is one of the world’s leading auction houses for antiques and fine art.  It is the only full-service auction house with their headquarters in New England. Founded over four decades ago, Skinner offers more than 60 auctions annually. Skinner auctions reach an international audience and showcase the unique, rare, and beautiful in dozens of categories, including the fine and decorative arts, jewelry, modern design, musical instruments, science and technology, wine, and many others. Currently Skinner has two locations; Marlboro MA and Park Plaza Boston. One of their specialty areas is the Fine Jewelry Department.  This department was founded by Gloria Lieberman in 1980.  She sought Bostonian Jewelers, specifically Hagop Matossian for expert restorations.

“ At last I have found someone to repair antique jewelry without destroying it and within a reasonable timeframe” Gloria Lieberman Vice President | Skinner Inc.  Explore more Gloria Lieberman

 

As a complement to its auction preview, Skinner invites you to participate in its Jewelry Clinic, hosted by Mr. Hagop Matossian from Bostonian Jewelers.  Mr. Matossian, an antique and period jewelry restoration expert, is viewed by his peers in the industry as a pioneer in laser restoration techniques.  For the past 30 years, he has collaborated with dealers and private collectors on restoration and alteration projects.  He will be available for individual consultations concerning items in the action throughout the afternoon”

Hagop Matossian attending Sale 2671B in lot #666

Mr. Matossian’s passion for vintage objects and his “ make it right” attitude gives him a unique perspective during the Fine Jewelry preview.  All preview attendees are welcome to ask Mr. Matossian about objects in the sale. Some items included are in perfect condition and others have been gently loved over the years.  He can provide his opinion on condition, restoration or value in the marketplace.

The Skinner Jewelry Auction provides two full preview days, as well as their online catalog (below).  The Live Auction is always scheduled on a Tuesday. If you plan on a visit to Skinner’s Park Plaza location for the preview, Mr. Matossian is only available on the Sunday prior, from 12 to 5pm. 

If you have questions regarding your own vintage or period restoration and would like to schedule a consultation with him in his Downtown Boston location, please call 617-523-2934 or email him directly at hagop@bostonianjewelers.com.

Bostonian Jewelers & Manufacturers, Inc., located in downtown Boston in the Jewelers Exchange Building, specializes in estate and period restoration, custom design and manufacturing exceptional jewelry. Family owned and operated since 1969, Bostonian Jewelers uses the latest in Laser technology.  They can restore even the most intricate of antique and period jewelry in platinum, gold, sterling silver and base metal.

 

Skinner’s Holiday auction is always the event of the season and is sure to bring all things Merry and Bright. 

“ Fine jewelry offerings at Skinner include estate, antique, modern, and artist-designed fine jewelry and gemstones from the 18th through 21st centuries.”

 

Photo | Catalog credit: www.skinnerinc.com, https://www.facebook.com/bostonianjewelers

From Philly's Streets To Bostonian's Hands

Art Deco | Sapphire and Diamond Brooch | Circa 1920

An out of state client contacted us to restore her grandmother's heirloom brooch she had inherited. I asked her to take some photos from all angles and email them along.  A few days later my heart sank when I opened her email and saw the condition of a piece of history in shambles.

Her item was completely destroyed on both sides inward, as it had been run over by cars multiple times on a busy Philly street.  This brooch was in serious need of tender love and care.  The owner had contacted many jewelers in and around the state of Pennsylvania, none were willing to take on her project of restoring this beautiful brooch. When I held the piece in my hands, I saw why.

The degree of damage was so extreme from the outside in, on left and right, including twisted, deformed and crushed settings.  In addition to missing, smashed and loose gemstones everywhere.  




Top view

Back view

Side view

These are the actual client images sent to Bostonian.




After about three weeks into the project, we have turned the halfway point on this restoration. We have reformed the platinum in the center areas and crafted new outer segments to be attached. Next is to custom cut all the small square blue sapphires that are going to be remounted.

Damaged outer frames removed (not in pic) center section re-aligned and new top outer frames fabricated.

As we meticulously reverse all that has gone wrong with this unlucky brooch, I can only imagine the many happy days of yesteryear; the dinners and receptions where this brooch was center stage, at least for one lucky woman.  This is what keeps our team determined to restore what has gone bad and erase those memories of that horrible night watching the beautiful brooch being run over, again and again...

Two goldsmiths work together on this project.  One is focused on the metal fabrication including the filigree details and the other, being a superior gemstone setter, on the diamond and sapphire setting and assembly. 



Top right completed



Top left completed



We finished the top tier on both left and right side, set all of the gemstones and assembled them back to the brooch on both sides.  We have fabricated the bottom frames for both sides and hand crafted the fine Art Deco filigree wire that will be assembled and welded in place to secure the middle of the top and bottom tier together.  This will replace the original filigree work that was destroyed along with adding structural integrity to the frame of the brooch.

Close up of side filigree and bottom frame, along with pin stem and catch

The hardware for the pin stem and catch is the last area of restoration.  We were able to salvage and recycle the original platinum pin, however the client chose to update the catch system to a modern style, to ensure better safety for future wear.  A final quality control and polish completes the project.

This restoration has taken the team at Bostonian a period of twelve weeks from start to finish. Each day dedicating four to five hours of the goldsmith's time. It was quite a challenging project in many aspects, but equally as rewarding to see an heirloom continue on it's journey. 

 

Design this Space!

You hear the studies regarding the number of hours at home vs. the office; the cubical dread of Monday mornings is “facebook’d” about far and wide; and your ability to create an entire meal out of vending machine fare is more than an impressive party trick, it’s a survival skill. Here at Bostonian we understand the long hours, the vending machine skill we tip our hats to but we’ve taken a different approach to the cubical. We recently designed our space to combat that business feel and have created a comfortable balance between work and play.

The newly redesigned space has a feeling of contemporary warmth mixed with a peaceful atmosphere. From what I’ve heard around the shop the old space was a bit more, how should I say this kindly…drab. It was a space that was neither inviting nor easily maneuverable. When the decision to renovate commenced there were so many overwhelming choices, from paint colors, to cabinets, to security, that an Architect firm by the name of Studio Troika was called in to help streamline the process.

The outcome was a beautiful balance of form and function. Sleek floors, Custom double-side display cabinets, recessed lighting and a design studio have all been implemented. In the design studio, a seating area is provided with a comfortable couch for those longer, more in depth design sessions. While in the main space high top tables and ample seating are available if there are more than two viewing.

As an observer, I have come up with a theory about this newly redesigned space. When a jewelry store feels like an extension of your home, customers don’t mind visiting it more than once. It seems that here most customers love to visit a lot and have their mothers visit and their sisters visit and their friends visit and…well you understand the point.

SO come combat that cubical dread with a relaxing visit to our new design space, view our portfolio’s and lets talk over a glass of chardonnay about what you’d like to create. If you have a sister, mother, friend or the like, bring them along and enjoy what Bostonian and the staff has to offer.


For more pictures or to find directions please visit our website at www.BostonianJewelers.com

Art Deco Platinum Ring Restoration

Art Deco restoration project. Above is a video of the before and after from a three stone ring that was sent to Bostonian Jewelers to restore. As you can see, the restoration project was a success and the client was overwhelmed with the result!

If you have anything that is in need of repair please visit our website at www.bostonianjewelers.com to view more examples.

Bostonian Jewelers - Antique Restorations

Above is a slideshow of a few of our previous restorations. If you have a question about repairing or restoring one of your own antiques please visit our website at www.bostonianjewelers.com