Inspirational Techniques

During the Skinner preview on Sunday, we were inspired by many works of art and period pieces. A few stood out for us, not for their carat weight, size or their particular provenance, but for the sheer craftsmanship and the method involved to create. Some pieces took months to create in artist's studios, but all show a level of creativity and skill to amaze.  Lot #495 stood out for us for the engineering and interactive artistry involved.

18k Gold and Plique-a-Jour Enamel Flower Brooch.  

Lot # 495 with a starting bid of $1500 - $2000

This brooch is amazing and entirely handmade. The flower is comprised of five articulating petals which allows the owner to wear the flower as a bud or in full bloom.  The precise hinge mechanism at the base of each petal, work together to glide open and close. Moving parts on jewelry always adds a layer of complexity to any design due to the small size.  Add to that years of use and age of the materials and eventually a restoration is needed. Lot #495 is in perfect condition.  Probably created in the 30's, this brooch was gently loved.

Each petal is created using an enamel technique called Plique-a-Jour.  The name is French for

 "letting in daylight".  The artist creates cells or intricate frames similar to cloisonne but without a backing so the light can shine through through the transparent or translucent enamel. The enamelist will place a small amount of material in each cell, floating a small air pocket within the enamel to suspend the material in place.  It is fired at high temperature to create the stained glass enamel look. Incredible. 

The petals and the framework are stunning, but what makes this brooch come to life are the sapphires and diamonds set en tremblant. A French term meaning " to tremble". This technique is typically used on brooches with foliage or organic themes.  In this case, each gemstone is set on a stem to resemble a fluttering stamen at the center of the flower.  The jeweler incorporated a spring component for each one called a trembler.  Over the years, Bostonian Jewelers have restored various trembler mechanisms.  This requires the knowledge of how to create them as well as the knowledge of various types of tremblers created over periods of time.  

 The movement within the bright green enamel is fascinating to look at and must have been a conversation piece at many cocktail parties. This brooch is on display at the Skinner auction preview until noon on Tuesday when it will be up for auction.  If you are in the Park Plaza area, this is a must see (and touch). 

Another example of en tremblant applied in fine jewelry is this spectacular butterfly brooch.  The brooch was created to move as one unit and catch your eye from across the room.  The trembler is attached to the backside clasp element. The inside spring is coiled up within the disc creating the tension needed for movement. 

The movement or articulation of parts on works of art is not anything new, but we are seeing the technique being used in new and creative ways in the jewelry industry.  A new generation of designers and the expansion of the technology available has exploded the possibilities.   

Bostonian Jewelers has been in the business of restoring antique and period jewelry for generations.  We appreciate the skill, time and passion that is required to create items similar to these, but we also appreciate the love that owners have for their heirlooms.  If you have a vintage item that has en tremblant or you suspect that it may have this technique at some point, contact us for a consultation.

Vintage Engagement Ring...Re-imagined.

This Summer, we had the pleasure of working with a long time client.  She is always on the move, crisscrossing the country.  Boston is a frequent stop for her, however the West Coast is where she calls home.  She has a deep appreciation for all jewelry, so we can all connect on that level creating some amazing pieces for her through the years. Recently she became engaged, her fiancé gave her an amazing and unique vintage ring including twin European cut diamonds bezel set side by side on top if the ring.  The condition of the ring was typical for a ring that is over 100 years old.  The shank was worn, thin and split.  All the settings on the sides were worn as well as the under gallery being compromised by wear over the years.

Our Customer provided this image
when she first acquired the ring

The condition of the ring
 when it arrived to us

Our client loves color, so to truly make this ring hers and one she would love to wear for years to come, she wanted to incorporate (somehow) an
incredible gem in the center sandwiched between the two twin diamonds.  She has an impressive collection of loose gemstones in various shades and intensities, but a cushion shaped sapphire with intense color was the perfect selection. The bezel setting was created in CAD and fitted into place, however the remainder of the transformation was hand tooled in our workshop.  Our team worked together to make our client's dream of the perfect 'enhanced" engagement ring possible. 



Work in Progress:  Side image of the ring while the
 stones are being set

Work in Progress: The diamonds on the side bezel
 being set in place.






When our customer arrived to pick up her ring, she was overjoyed.  Not only was her vintage ring restored to a wearable condition for everyday use, but her ring had transformed into the style that she had always envisioned for her engagement ring.  Having vision and trust in the design and restoration process to create a spectacular heirloom to enjoy for many years to come.

Do you have a vintage ring that just does not suit your style?  Can it be re-imagined?  Contact us to discover the possibilities or visit our website for more information on restorations and our process.

Bostonian Jewelers Restorations

Photo Credit: Bostonian Jewelers and Client Photo

Bostonian Jewelers 1-888-523-0130



From Philly's Streets To Bostonian's Hands

Art Deco | Sapphire and Diamond Brooch | Circa 1920

An out of state client contacted us to restore her grandmother's heirloom brooch she had inherited. I asked her to take some photos from all angles and email them along.  A few days later my heart sank when I opened her email and saw the condition of a piece of history in shambles.

Her item was completely destroyed on both sides inward, as it had been run over by cars multiple times on a busy Philly street.  This brooch was in serious need of tender love and care.  The owner had contacted many jewelers in and around the state of Pennsylvania, none were willing to take on her project of restoring this beautiful brooch. When I held the piece in my hands, I saw why.

The degree of damage was so extreme from the outside in, on left and right, including twisted, deformed and crushed settings.  In addition to missing, smashed and loose gemstones everywhere.  




Top view

Back view

Side view

These are the actual client images sent to Bostonian.




After about three weeks into the project, we have turned the halfway point on this restoration. We have reformed the platinum in the center areas and crafted new outer segments to be attached. Next is to custom cut all the small square blue sapphires that are going to be remounted.

Damaged outer frames removed (not in pic) center section re-aligned and new top outer frames fabricated.

As we meticulously reverse all that has gone wrong with this unlucky brooch, I can only imagine the many happy days of yesteryear; the dinners and receptions where this brooch was center stage, at least for one lucky woman.  This is what keeps our team determined to restore what has gone bad and erase those memories of that horrible night watching the beautiful brooch being run over, again and again...

Two goldsmiths work together on this project.  One is focused on the metal fabrication including the filigree details and the other, being a superior gemstone setter, on the diamond and sapphire setting and assembly. 



Top right completed



Top left completed



We finished the top tier on both left and right side, set all of the gemstones and assembled them back to the brooch on both sides.  We have fabricated the bottom frames for both sides and hand crafted the fine Art Deco filigree wire that will be assembled and welded in place to secure the middle of the top and bottom tier together.  This will replace the original filigree work that was destroyed along with adding structural integrity to the frame of the brooch.

Close up of side filigree and bottom frame, along with pin stem and catch

The hardware for the pin stem and catch is the last area of restoration.  We were able to salvage and recycle the original platinum pin, however the client chose to update the catch system to a modern style, to ensure better safety for future wear.  A final quality control and polish completes the project.

This restoration has taken the team at Bostonian a period of twelve weeks from start to finish. Each day dedicating four to five hours of the goldsmith's time. It was quite a challenging project in many aspects, but equally as rewarding to see an heirloom continue on it's journey. 

 

Art Deco Platinum Ring Restoration

Art Deco restoration project. Above is a video of the before and after from a three stone ring that was sent to Bostonian Jewelers to restore. As you can see, the restoration project was a success and the client was overwhelmed with the result!

If you have anything that is in need of repair please visit our website at www.bostonianjewelers.com to view more examples.

Bostonian Jewelers - Antique Restorations

Above is a slideshow of a few of our previous restorations. If you have a question about repairing or restoring one of your own antiques please visit our website at www.bostonianjewelers.com

New Designs

Above is a small slide show to show you some of the custom designs available. All of these designs can be set with our expert selected gemstones or with your personal collection. These photographs can also be used as inspiration for your next piece. All designs can be mixed and matched or altered to fit your personal style and taste.

Please visit our website to view more unique and custom designs at www.bostonianjewelers.com